Have I Bought A Dudd?

[Legendaryjim]

Hi all. Am new to this forum but have been reading many helpful bits of information before taking the plunge and posting.

Just last Sunday I bought a MK1 Galaxy 1.9TDi Ghia X 1999 from a young Lithuanian fella through eBay. In the description, there were no faults described and the photos of the car looked great , it had MOT and so I went for it and won it. Went to collect it, gave it the quick once over and took it for a quick spin and all seemed ok. The next day, I was taking the kids to school, driving at about 50MPH and all of a sudden the engine just kinda died and then went again. It felt a bit like as if you had stalled it, the engine made that kinda clunk noise and then it just carried on as if nothing had happened. Put it down to a one off and carried on fine. Next day, Glow plug light started flashing but the car started and ran fine until all of a sudden it cut out twice in a row. Glow plug light stayed flashing. did it three times yesterday and again 4 times this morning and the glow plug /EM light just flashes all the time now but I have noticed it delays coming on after the engine has started by about 7 seconds! I have ordered a VAGCOM lead but it isnt here yet so can't pin point anything as yet but nobody else's symptoms seemed to match mine so thought I would throw it to the masses to see your thoughts please.

I am worried that ive just blown all my saved cash on a heap of S**T :D

Anyone got any ideas what it could be?

Until the log book comes back, I have no idea what the sellers address is. I could contact him again through ebay but theres no saying Ill get a response and I cant help but think that although he told me he was selling it because he couldnt afford the insurance, that he knew something was up with it and punted it out to a mug like me quick smart.

your thoughts please guys :31:

 

Other more minor faults it has that if you know fixes for, would be great:

 

Passenger heated seat doesnt work.

no air comes out of the rear blower vent by the wheel arch (fans in front work)

Passenger side window doesnt close on global locking but every other function it does works ok just wont close on global lock

Cruise Control Doesnt Work

Air con air isnt cold at all

 

Other than that it is lovely! :S

 

Having read that back I wonder why I bought it now :lol:

[Amarok]

Welcome to the Forum, from your description it does seem to be a intermittent fault so I would suspect there is a relay that is not working correctly (Relay 30 appears to be the root of all evil) so hopefully it not a sign of danger !!

There is a switch on the dash to turn on the rear fans

Cruise control usually a perished pipe

Aircon not working :D pretty standard for the galaxy I'm afraid try a regas at Kwik Fit could do the trick

 

if you are a AA member you can get Parts & labour cover From

[alan_131]

You're not alone... Bought my 2000(99 built) 110 Tdi Ghia on ebay, finding many issues. Not at all sure I won't end up spending more than it would have cost to get a get newer one.

However, for you, to look on the bright side, once you get your vagcom lead the engine problem may be easily solved. The other stuff - apart from the a/c perhaps - could be very easy/cheap to fix.

 

Do you have the climatronic (LCD panel) a/c or the one with three rotary knobs?

If you have the rotary knobs, is the rear heater panel enabled on the dash - and switched on on the panel above the LHR passenger door?

If it's the climatronic, does the display flash when you turn the car on? vagcom may help here too. Sadly Galaxy AC not very robust..

Cruise control might be switches

Window could be wiring in gaiter

Heated passenger seat - no idea - fuse - do you have swivel seats?

 

Forum has lots on all the above if you search, and the experts here have really helped me...

Good luck

[Legendaryjim]

Hi again. Thanks so much for your reassuring replies. The AA is a good idea thank you. Could save me a forutne! I have climatronic Heating panel, Good thinking about the wiring in the door gaitor, yes I have swivel seats too. Hopefully the VAG will answer a lot of these questions but Ive read mixed responses about them on here. Some people say theyre a nightmare. So can anyone clarify that when the controls for hetaing are set to LO, thats when the air con kicks in and blows in the cold air right? Or in my case not cold at all :| Also, talking away from the car now, I cant seem to view any of the FAQ's on this forum, The links all give me a 404 error. Is that the same for everyone or just me?

 

Kind Regards

J

[Legendaryjim]

Fixed my FAQ problem. IE9 doesnt like it so switched to chrome and its fine. :D

[alan_131]

Aircon from memory of reading (cause mine was u/s when I got the car and I'm not spending money on it till I'm sure I'm keeping it) is basically automatic unless you switch to "Econ". So, if temp inside is warmer than your choice on the dash, I THINK you may get ac on, maybe blended. On LO I guess it's on all the time. When I'm back to the car I'll check the handbook if you like. I know mine flashes on startup, and vagcom says I have an open circuit on the pressure switch, which I've not dug into yet, and won't start the compressor. If yours is blowing cold at all, and not flashing, then you're ahead of me...

 

Now you're into the FAQs you'll find a well-trodden path for most things. I've not really got to grips properly with the search facility yet - I do a bit better with advanced search (the cog next to the magnifying glass) - but more than once have had a question patiently answered only to come across the same experts' answer in a previous posting. Good job they're patient.

[Legendaryjim]

Yes indeed it is lol. Many thanks for your help. I'll post back my VAGCOM findings once I get it incase youre interested. Cheers All

[gregers]

whereabouts in the south east are you?

 

are your brake lights working?

Edited May 21, 2012 by gregers

[seatkid]

Flashing glow plug light plus cruise not working often points to a faulty/misadjusted brake light switch (its more than just a brake light switch) see faqs. VAGCOM would confirm. A faulty brake light switch wouldnt cause the engine to cut out however, although it can cause the engine to resort to idle speed under cetain circumstances, overriding the accelerator pedal.

 

Note Cruise control on TDI is electronic, no piping involved.

 

A/c not blowing cold - usually due to lack of gas - in this case the climatronic panel would flash for 15 seconds on start up to indicate a fault, if not then you need to check fuses and look for 12v at the connection to the compressor. To turn a/c on select AUTO on the panel, the main engine cooling fan(s) should turn on at half speed and the compressor clutch should engage (clunk)

 

Window problems are usually associated with perished wiring in door gaitors (see FAQ)

 

Heated passenger seat - check fuses then the connector under the seat - otherwise its the seat pad usually gone o/c - expensive to replace if you really need this feature.

 

Rear fan, check fuses.

Edited May 21, 2012 by seatkid

[Legendaryjim]

This is all brilliant advice!! thank you so much :D I am very happy I found this forum. I will try all that has been suggested and post back what the VAGCOM reports. Cheers Everyone!! :lol:

[octo0072000]

what you have to remember is it's a 13 year old car

lots of other cars by now are in the scrap yard, you will get problems these are a family hack only get serviced once a year if lucky or when it breaks down,

on the forum you only hear about the problems never the praises

mine is the same 1999 ghia 110bhp tdi auto with all of the same problems as yours

mine has a full service history main point you need to sort out is when it last had the cam-belt changed not a service item by the way but an extra on a service 40.000 miles on these should have had later cam kit fitted by now so up to 60.000miles i believe broken cam-belt scrap car unless you are good with spanners

the mk2 gals seem to suffer more problems than the mk1s

all the best and welcome to the mad house

:D :lol: :31: :rolleyes:

[Legendaryjim]

I was told the cambelt was done at 185000, mileage now is 191000. Quite high I thought but was reassured that these engines have plenty of life in them lol

[Legendaryjim]

My LCD Heating Display Flashes. What is that telling me?

[alan_131]

It's telling you you have a fault. (helpful, eh?)

(Seatkid mentioned it and faultfinding hints in his post, there's lots more on Galaxy ac probs if you search)

 

When you get your vagcom lead you should be able to interrogate it and find out what it thinks the problem is....

then if you need help, post the codes. Bet somebody here will have seen them before!

Good luck!

Edited May 22, 2012 by alan_131

[Legendaryjim]

Ok here goes. The VAGCOM surprisingly arrived today so well happy with that. Installed cable etc, plugged it in, ran test etc etc. I punted for VW Sharan? ran the scan and here are the results

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Tuesday, 22 May 2012, 17:22:09.

 

 

Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan

Scan: 25,01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,22,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56,76

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 7M0-953-257.LBL

Controller: 7M0 953 257 AB

Component: V41 VA1 98V BC 2 3

Coding: 09600

Shop #: WSC 00000

VCID: 769F65DB41C9

2 Faults Found:

01179 - Incorrect Key Programming

35-00 - -

01176 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

65-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL

Controller: 028 906 021 HB

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1907

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 00020

VCID: 56DF055BA109

2 Faults Found:

00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

00542 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

27-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.LBL

Controller: 1J0 907 379 G

Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001

Coding: 12812

Shop #: WSC 00020

VCID: 351DA2D71C4F

No fault code found.

 

I was wondering if the key programming problem was maybe because I used the spare key in the ignition, the one without the c/l buttons on it.

 

Any input greatfully recieved :)

[alan_131]

Looks like you've found a couple of possible explanations for your problems. Now you've got the codes, I expect you're working your way through the ross-tech and the forum and I don't imagine I can add anything to what you'll find there - you need the experts for that - but one thing I've heard or read somewhere not mentioned on the ross-tech site under the code anyway is that the pickup coil for the immobilizer (black ring round the ignition barrel) can move a bit, or get confused by additional keys on a keyring. Not experienced this myself but...

 

Did you get any codes from the a/c?

 

One other thing - forum usually recommends clearing the codes and seeing what comes back, in case some relate to old problems that have been fixed. Of course, you may have already done that, and in any case it's sometimes useful to know what's happened in the past...

[SilverBeast]

Make sure you clear all the fault codes, now you have noted them. Drive around for a bit then read them again.

Some codes don't clear automatically but may have been around a long time. That's the easiest way to find your "current" problems.

[octo0072000]

could be spare key causing that fault clear the codes you have to go into each controller to clear them on shareware

looks like MAF senser has gone quite common check the wiring first on it clear the codes see if it comes back of not

[Legendaryjim]

Can someone please clarify what chassis type you choose for a Galaxy please? The Galaxy isnt in the VCDSLITE list ( I assume because its not meant for Galaxy's)

 

Cleared the MAF sensor fault and now the Glow plug light isnt on anymore but the Engine still cuts out at low engine speeds when accelerating (but not all the time)

 

Any ideas please? I have to drive to Wiltshire soon (206 miles) and I am worried the car will die because of this fault :S

[alan_131]

Hi. I used the sharan 7M setting and it worked fine for me, but only used it when I first got the software. Now I just connect to the individual controllers.

 

I've tried disconnecting my lift sensor and it flags a different fault than the one you have, but the engine still starts/runs. However I haven't tried it on the move. I already have a control deviation and don't want to drive it without the correction the sensor allows (I think).

 

Do you have any more codes logged after the engine cuts out?

 

On another (tdiforum probably) forum I've seen something very like this, which went away when the connector was cleaned with contact cleaner. Have you had any luck with the wiring. I'm sure you'd find the same info on here somewhere. I think the sensor has a resistance which is read somehow rather then a simple off/on, so could be sensitive to this. An expert will know, but I imagine a badly connectedsensor could be worse than none at all, because it could signal the ecu that the timing was definately off (in error) rather than leaving the ecu to assume its ok-ish...

 

 

 

When I unplugged mine to test it, the connector had some fluid in it. Could be contact cleaner (hopefully), might be diesel or probably worst case - and I don't know if the problem extends to this connector or not - coolant migration. So I can see it might be subject to corrosion.

 

Good luck!

Edited May 23, 2012 by alan_131

[Legendaryjim]

Thanks Alan. Heres new news. Since I cleared the codes yesterday, as I said befre the engine management light is no longer flashing but the fault is still happening (engine cutting(I would said that it seems to happen on acceleration but cant confirm that for definite as it happens when it wants to)) and I have been running it around today witht the same thing hapening. I connected the VAG up again and scanned but now it doesnt fond a fault with the MAF at all as before.

This is the new Log

 

Chassis Type: 7M - Seat Alhambra

Scan: 25,01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,22,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56,76

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 7M0-953-257.LBL

Controller: 7M0 953 257 AB

Component: V41 VA1 98V BC 2 3

Coding: 09600

Shop #: WSC 00000

2 Faults Found:

01179 - Incorrect Key Programming

35-00 - -

01176 - Key

65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL

Controller: 028 906 021 HB

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1907

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 00020

No fault code found.

Readiness: N/A

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.LBL

Controller: 1J0 907 379 G

Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001

Coding: 12812

Shop #: WSC 00020

No fault code found.

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 7M0-907-040.LBL

Controller: 7M0 907 040 AS

Component: CLIMATRONIC MPV V110

Coding: 00013

Shop #: WSC 00020

2 Faults Found:

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error

00-00 - -

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

35-00 - -

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: None

Controller: 7M0 962 258 F

Component: Multifunkt.Einheit 0001

Coding: 16385

Shop #: WSC 00020

No fault code found.

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.LBL

Controller: 1J0 909 603 AA

Component: AIRBAG VW3 - V04

Coding: 16705

Shop #: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95)

32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments Labels: None

Controller: 95V W10 849 95-

Component: ZK biinstrument 066a

Coding: 00124

Shop #: WSC 01545

No fault code found.

 

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I suppose the cutout could have something to do with the immobiliser perhaps? What do you think? I wonder if it could be something like Fuel pump or something? An injector blocked? I dont know. I trained as a mechanic like 20 years ago when I left school, but then went into computers so to be honest I cant remember alot about engines now. :/

[Legendaryjim]

Spoke too soon. Glow Plug light now flashing again so ran test, got same results as above AND this one too now

 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL

Controller: 028 906 021 HB

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1907

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

00542 - Needle lift Sensor (G80)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

 

Will investigate what that means. Hopefully it is the misfiring/cutting problem I am getting. Thanks all.:)

[alan_131]

You're probably better placed to know than me then! I've always tinkered - starting with outboards and lawnmowers and moving on to bikes and cars once I hit puberty... but no formal training at all = and most of my working life I've spent in computers too. Sort of retired now, in a need to get back to work cause the money's running out kind of a way.

 

Yes, if it was me I think the immobiliser would be a prime candidate for culprit. Had the same on mine, but much less frequently - perhaps 2/3 times in the 12 weeks I've had it. It was one of the reasons why I got vagcom - never really needed it on my other one. Not tried to solve it yet - no time -, but the obvious place to start seems to be the usual process of elimination - different keys, aerial ring location/connections - the stuff on the ross-tech website under the code. "Interesting" that it seems to happen when you're accelerating - maybe something moving that trips it? Of course could be more than one thing (wire moving, tripping out say cut-off solenoid, then on overrun reconnecting...).

 

If only you weren't driving it, would be good to see if the immob code came up right after the cutout - don't think you can log immob on vcds-lite unregistered unfortunately. I'm sort of assuming that you don't want to pay out to get the key/immob recoded atm.

 

 

As I understand it, the immobiliser chips in the keys are really reliable, but if you have a clone-able key and no other working spare might be worth getting a key cut to rule that out but seems a bit of a long shot. I can lend you the aerial ring from my old galaxy for a couple of days to test if you get that far, but probably not in time to get to you for the weekend. (I'd need it back, because I'm still driving it...)

Think I'd join the AA or whatever before that journey.

 

I wonder if the chip would work if taken out of the key and stuck to the aerial ring. It might need a particular alignment - or it might not work at all because it needs to be on the axis of the aerial/barrel.

 

Good luck - let me know if you'd like to try that aerial.

Edited May 23, 2012 by alan_131

[Legendaryjim]

Thanks Alanmate. Yes I think youre right about the process of elimination. I'll get the faults fixed and squared away and see what fixes it. Thanks for your support buddy, I'll pm you if/when I need to borrow that ring. Cheers :)

 

Just found this though which sounds interesting. Another route to follow I think

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=149029

Edited May 23, 2012 by Legendaryjim

[SilverBeast]

How many keys have you?

You haven't got two on the same keyring have you? If so I guess they could interfere with each other. Try just using the key, with no keyring and no other keys if that is the case.

 

From a safety point of view I would hope that an immobiliser fault developing on the move wouldn't stop the engine but only prevent it starting next time. I know this was the case on my Volvo V40 when the power supply wire to the immobiliser module degraded and started dropping the voltage till it was outside the limits of what the immobiliser would accept. It took the garage a week to give up on finding this and then me 40min with the Volvo VADIS CD to fix it!